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If you talking about a whitish area of one of your Cessna windows, as far as I know that can't be removed.
But if you talking about paint over spray, tiny surface pitting caused by dust and sand, or just general hazey vision through your windshield, that can almost always be polished out.
Aircraft Spruce and Specialty (aircraftspruce.com) stocks a variety of kits.
I have the Scratch Off kit and it has everything in need.
All of the damage or blockage is in the surface layer.
With a few common tools and a series of finer and finer abrasives the surface layer (and all the tiny imperfections can be safely removed.
The Scratch Off kit has easy to follow directions.
You can get more tips on YouTube.
Folks have been doing lots of internet research to remove the haze from the windows of my 182Q. Most info I find is very outdated. Any experience here is appreciated.
yeah, we are seeing 2x than normal on the 2008 and later especially.. 2x!!!
Any of the restart 182 are bringing solid money. I have a 1997 182S and whenever I think about selling it it becomes obvious it would be hard to replace.
we are in the middle of doing a deep divedeep dive
of sorts on Cessna 182 pricing .. it appears that late model 182s (2008 ish and later) are trading WAY above market... and we are of the opinion that this is an abberation in the market
I'd love to hear from any CE 182 owners, recent buyers, etc. what their experience has been
we are also running a promotion this month (until Oct 1) for Cessna Flyer members to get free subscription trials from membership .. email me at @planephd.com and I'll set anyone interested up with a 14 day trial of the Enhanced level here: planephd.com/data/access/pricing/
My recent reply was meant for Michael.
Take a look at Zachary's post in this thread--I believe it will add weight to my suggestion.
I don't have any personal experience on those seals, but my gut feeling is that once the seals in one part of an assembly fail (due to age, etc.) it won't be long before the other same-type seals also need attention.
Before you dig in, I suggest you get every drop of hyd fluid out of that bay. Clean, Clean. It's remotely possible that you're seeing residual oil.
Steve, have you ever seen part “9” packing(s) fail and subsequent leak? I am trying to locate a leak on my right main. Some time back I replaced the seals that are circled in red but still have a small leak on that side. Thoughts???
Couple of thoughts here Michael; The 210L nose gear door position does not “communicate” in any way with the green light, so that makes me wonder.
Also; If you were using the hand pump and it “fixed” the issue I would want to check the power pack pressure switch. Any time the system pressure falls below a defined limit, the pump should re-energize to build the pressure back up when the gear handle is down and the master switch is on. If your door valve was leaking, the pump should have energized to re-pressure the system.
I would check all the gear down limit switch tolerances. I would also wiggle the pig tail of each switch to see if there is a broken wire where the leads exit the switch. Have someone monitor the green light as you wiggle the wires.
I had a broken wire on my nose gear squat switch that resulted in an intermittent gear retraction issue. (Green light worked as designed because this is not a part of that circuit) The wire casing/insulator looked fine. The wire was broken inside of the casing therefore I couldn’t visually detect it. Just by happenstance I discovered the issue.
Every time you operate the landing gear those wire leads out of those micro switches flex. Eventually, 40+ year old wiring will fail under these conditions. That’s what happened to me. I replaced every limit switch in my system.
Hope this helps.
One very good a/c paint shop is Dial Eastern States in Cadiz, OH. (8G6) (740) 942-2316
I put in the old round gauges as I thought I would use then – and never have!
Never had a problem with the VSI – its is small but you get used to it – just like you get used to the tapes - the g3x does have a highbred round gauge option that is very user friendly that you could use to transition.
The fit out was done by Multiflight and it was their first one – but they did not report on any issues.
The one thing I would strongly recommend if you are putting in the autopilot – put the box at the top - its so easy to use when turning the dials for heading etc than having it low down in the dash board and for many other reasons.
It’s a fantastic system and easy to use –
Hi Marc, thanks for sharing your picture. I am about to do the same with a 1997 C172R, with roughly the lay-out you have chosen for yours.
Of course, it'd be great to hear of any snags you hit on the way to the end result, but I also have a question about the experience of the G3X screen: I find the V/S indication unsatisfactorily small.
Do you miss the round VSI and should I save it and recycle it (or don't you even look at the round dials anymore)?
Really appreciate it,
WE replaced the entire panel in our 182A and the vacuum system. I have all of the old parts if you need something I am happy to give it to you for the price of the shipping. I also have the narco mode s traansponderer AT 50 w tray. Generator bracket and the Delco voltage regulator.
So glad you're up and flying again.
So sad that the maintenance shop wasn't up to snuff.
Thanks for sharing your experiences.
I wish I knew of an excellent A & P (IA) at every airport, but they seem to be getting harder and harder to find.
No direct personal experience, but my buddy with a Cherokee 235 was REALLY PLEASED with the overall experience and overhaul of his O-540 at Cross Country Aviation at Lancaster (KLNC); contact Josh Hoffman at 817-992-8199.