Starting Problems; Electrical

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2 years 9 months ago #1250 by STEVE ELLS
Replied by STEVE ELLS on topic Starting Problems; Electrical
I guess I failed to fully explain my ignition switch post. The disassembly, reassembly with new parts and lubrication of the new parts of all Gerdes and ACS ignition switches, which were installed as original equipment in many Cessna single engine airplanes is addressed in Airworthiness Directive 93-05-06, which applies to the vast majority of Cessna singles.
The AD requires the ign switch to be disassembled as I described in my previous post and inspected. Aircraft Spruce and Specialty ( www.aircraftspruce.com ) sells an inexpensive kit. For less than $20 the buyer gets a new backplate, three new contacts, new springs and the proper lubricant. Go here for the kit:https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/ignitionswitchkit.php.
I have attached the ACS service bulletin SB92-1 Revision D, dated 11-18-08. This six page bulletin contains all the information required to install and service the ignition switch.

According the the AD this AD should be performed every 2000 hours.

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2 years 9 months ago - 2 years 9 months ago #1249 by BOB WEBER
Replied by BOB WEBER on topic Starting Problems; Electrical

KENT VANDENBERG wrote: Thanks Bob for your reply. I have a new bit of information. With the master ON and just after a failed start, I noticed my alternator inop light flickering slightly. That should be, and always has been, a steady light with just the master on and the engine not running. That leads me towards the battery contactor. I'll keep watching and looking.


If you can operate a voltmeter and get me a diagram of your system I can help you troubleshoot this way faster than illegally overhauling one of the more important switches in your electrical system. No need for light bulbs or LED's, just a quick analysis of where the problem lies.

Let me know if I can help.
Bob Weber
Autopilot Consultant
webairconsulting.com
Last edit: 2 years 9 months ago by BOB WEBER.

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2 years 9 months ago #1246 by STEVE ELLS
Replied by STEVE ELLS on topic Starting Problems; Electrical
Take the starter switch apart and clean the contacts. Removing the switch from the panel is simple; remove the nut on the control wheel side.
Hold the switch with the key end down and remove the two screws holding the back to the front. Carefully pull the halves apart. You will find two or three triangular parts and two or three springs inside the switch--memorize or take a photo of where they are. It's pretty easy to visualize the location by why take chances.
Clean all the contact surfaces on the triangular parts and all the contacts in the back half (the part the wires are connected to).
I use contact cleaner and a pencil eraser to polish the contacts.
Do not remove the wires from the back half of the switch.
When all is clean, re assemble and re install.
I think you'll find your problem has been solved.

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  • KENT VANDENBERG
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2 years 10 months ago #1242 by KENT VANDENBERG
Replied by KENT VANDENBERG on topic Starting Problems; Electrical
Thanks, that's a great idea. I could hook up some LED's or lights and hanger test things until I get a bad start and see what is going on under load. Monitor the voltages all the way back from the starter.

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  • JOSE LOPEZ DEL PUERTO
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2 years 10 months ago - 2 years 10 months ago #1241 by JOSE LOPEZ DEL PUERTO
Replied by JOSE LOPEZ DEL PUERTO on topic Starting Problems; Electrical
Kent,
You really don’t know so far if the starter is being energized. Make a wire with a bulb, hook it to the starter side of the starter contactor and turn the key (with master on). If bulb lights the problem is the starter. If the bulb doesn’t light, repeat the test with every other terminal of the starter contactor. Keep going backwards until you find the problem. It could be the starter, the starter contactor, the key switch, the master switch, the battery contactor or a wire.
Last edit: 2 years 10 months ago by JOSE LOPEZ DEL PUERTO.

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2 years 10 months ago #1240 by KENT VANDENBERG
Replied by KENT VANDENBERG on topic Starting Problems; Electrical
Thanks Bob for your reply. I have a new bit of information. With the master ON and just after a failed start, I noticed my alternator inop light flickering slightly. That should be, and always has been, a steady light with just the master on and the engine not running. That leads me towards the battery contactor. I'll keep watching and looking.

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